Egypt

Egypt Adventure

The day began with a barefoot sprint from security at Midway Airport to gate A10 for our AirTran
departure. My daughter and I just barely arriving before the door closes. The flight to Newark uneventful and after a layover we board our KLM 777 flight to Amsterdam. The seat back video games and movies are a big hit for Junior.

We arrive in Amsterdam around noon and with an eight (8) hour layover we bolt from the airport and into Amsterdam. Trains from the airport to the Central Station run frequently and just are 7.40E return total. Once at Central Station we exit and engage a Canal Boat tour just steps away. The city is dissected with many canals and the tour is a spectacular way to see the city. We followed this with a nice walking tour and visit to the flower market.

Back to the airport, the usual breeze through customs, and we board our KLM 777 flight to Cairo. Departing around 9P we arrive shy of 1A and the madness of the next four (4) days begins. A taxi ride (50LE) to the Grand Hyatt and check in. A beautiful room with a view of city and Nile at night is spectacular.

The day begins early with a cloudy sky and a change of plans switching a day at the Giza Pyramids to a visit of the Egyptian Museum and walk around Cairo. En-route to the Museum we are approached by a gentleman who indicated that we are headed the wrong way (not) and he will show us the way, “trust me, I am a doctor“. The way apparently was through his perfume shop which we respectfully declined.

The Museum (40LE / 20LE) is hard to describe. Constrained by lack of size and budget are obvious. The exhibit a mix of the spectacular and the chaos that is Egypt. Cameras are no longer permitted into the Museum and after many obvious and veiled attempts to circumvent, I was forced to leave mine at the entrance check. The old, middle and new kingdoms are represented. Dynasties, Kings and Queens. The King Tutankhamen exhibit was free and the Mummy room (70LE / 40LE) was additional. Definitely allow several hours to absorb all that is present.

The remainder of the day was spent walking into Zamalek to find the place of study for a good friend. Then later a return to the hotel and a walk to Coptic Cairo. The venture through Cairo not via tourist spots opens our eyes and ears to the people. Horns honk excessively, everyone was quick to say Hello and Hi! Where are you from?? There are Police everywhere. I think we are looked upon more than the exhibits of the Museum! We return to the hotel and pack.

This evening we depart via sleeping train to Luxor (106US / 80US). The station is chaos which is a familiar term in Cairo; but, the platform easy to find. The train departs at 8:30P. Each car separated into compartments. Our compartment arranged in seats which later convert to a pull down top bunk and convertible lower bed. Following a horrible supper which makes an airline meal look spectacular, we settle into bed for the night. I recommend the train for travel to Luxor and suggest you bring bottled water and something to eat along with you for the journey.

We arrive into Luxor at 5:30A and greeted by our tour representative. We arranged for a full day private tour with guide of the East Bank, Karnak and Luxor through Janet Foy. Janet is a British ex-pat residing in Luxor. She did a wonderful job of taking into consideration our needs, schedule and circumstances. Her personal attention is a rare commodity. The quality was superior. I strongly urge all readers to consider using her services for travel and tours of Luxor and throughout Egypt. She can be reached at: janetfoy7@yahoo.co.uk

I can only begin to provide a broad stroke of what we saw. The history is expansive and I simply acquired memory overload just attempting to absorb what I could. All entrance fees were included in our tour, I will mention these for individual travelers. The Valley of the Kings (55LE / 30LE) was impressive in it’s size and history. The admission provides entrance to the 3 tombs with King Tutankhamen and additional tombs an extra charge. A recent find is currently being excavated, the latest since 1922. It is disappointing; but, understandable that photos are not permitted within the tombs.

Al-Deir Al-Bahari Temple (20LE / 10LE). The was along the lines of what I had imagined of Egypt and very impressive. Built for Queen Hatshepsut, the history of the Queen magnificent as the female pharaoh to be King. The Temple only a small part of the original grounds were destroyed and are part of a reconstruction project. It dominates the landscape as your approach and offers a wonderful view of the Valley from the steps.

Valley of the Queens (55LE / 30LE) was similar to the the Kings as the splendor is what is within. The Tomb of Nefetari which is said to be the most magnificent was unfortunately closed. There are between 75 and 80 tombs in the Valley of the Queens. These belong to Queens of the 18th, 19th and 20th Dynasties.

Karnak (40LE / 20LE) was truly magnificent destination that I would challenge even the best architects and builders of today to achieve. I just cannot begin to express the magnitude of size and design.

The Luxor Temple (35LE / 20LE) featured a blend into the influence of Alexander the Great and Christianity as well as a Boulevard of Sphynx which are presently being unearthed and restored to connect the Temple with Karnak as it was during Ancient Egypt.

Our tour was well arranged by Janet. While we were asked if we wish to visit an Alabaster factory, Papyrus factory and add-ons, these were strictly options. Many tours will include these at no choice. It is frankly an opportunity for commissions for guides and tour companies. We said yes to the Alabaster factory. It was fun to see how some of the items were manufactured and the difference in quality from what you may find in some shops and vendors.

The rest of our day was spend on a walking tour of Luxor, visit to the Winter palace and a caleche ride through the city which my daughter thoroughly enjoyed. What we did in a single day should be enjoyed over much more time. The train from Luxor departs at 9:30P and we are asleep before we pull from the station.

The government has found a nice balance for managing the sites in Luxor. The entrance is designed to pass tourists along a “mall” of souvenir shops and vendors from the parking areas to the entrance. Once in the entrance of either Valley, Temple or Karnak you are in large part free of touts and tourist hawks. You find a few “guards” or grounds keepers along the way who will gladly accept a bit of “tip” to take your photo. The grounds are clean and well kept while tourist police monitor quite well what is going on.

We arrive into Cairo around 7:30A and walk just 200 feet across the parking lot to the Mubarak Metro Station. The metro in Cairo is definitely the most affordable means to travel at just .75LE per ride. Be sure to carry a map of the Metro System though as some stations only have maps in Arabic. The rides are packed and this is an understatement. I had to be a bit aggressive to keep my little one from being squished. To exit is like jumping from a waterfall.

A return to the Grand Hyatt for our last day. The Hyatt is a very nice property with dedicated check-in facilities on the 30th floor for executive level guests. The rooms were decent size, well appointed with a nice bathroom. The amenity is a selection of local treats which were very tasty and access to the Club Lounge provided. The club features a nice breakfast and evening spread with excellent variety with light snacks available throughout the day. For members of the Gold Passport program, the 8000 point redemption is an excellent value.

I learned a quick lesson on Taxi rides day one. First, if you can, walk to Tasir to grab a cab. It will be at least 50% of what you will pay at the hotel. Establish what you believe to be a reasonable price and let the games begin. The new Yellow cabs seem to congregate here as well. Hold firm as you will hear at least once during your drive that the fare has changed and of course a demand versus suggestion for a tip. I also found it to be helpful to show money versus say the fare to eliminate any “exchange” misunderstandings.

A quick shower and we are off to Giza via taxi (15LE). I would suggest the Ring Road as this seemed to have the least amount of traffic. Be insistent that you are dropped at the entrance. You will be told that they cannot which is not true. The reason is that you will be dropped a block away and hit with a wave a camel / horse vendors who will try and get you to take their tours. Of course, buyer beware if this is what you choose. Haggle! The price will drop from 100 GBP each to around 100LE total if you work at it or perhaps lower. We passed and decided to walk around the pyramids (40LE / 20LE).
What is done well in Luxor has gone horribly wrong in Giza. The grounds are infested with people selling you everything from tourist trinkets to rides and openly asking for “tip“. Be careful of people who will “guide” you to a pyramid entrance as they are really leading you to a stable. On many occasions you are followed by vendors and camel salesman.. Some of the animals are in horrible distress as well as some of the people. The grounds are littered with trash and feces. This was the only time during our journey where I openly questioned whether our health may be at risk. The tourist police, although present, largely ignore what is going on.

We did take a horseback ride (10LE) and of course the entire time was spent with the guide trying to lead us away and changing the price. Be careful as a British family we encountered was offered a tour into the desert when the price changed en-route. They walked back instead of paying.

We had barely a moment of peace to enjoy and take in the spectacle of Giza. The pyramids are just awe inspiring and the Sphynx is incredible. You can see where the restoration work is taking place and can imagine the splendor upon completion. I would recommend an organized tour for all but the most sturdy of will. Prices range for group tours from $23US - $40US to private tours from $60US. Some may include trips to Sakara and Memphis as well as camel and horseback rides. In hind sight, the peace of mind may be well worth the additional cost.

The remainder of our last day we relaxed and enjoyed Cairo. It was truly awesome to have my daughter with me. She experienced through innocent eyes a world alien to that which she resides and enjoyed herself. She asked so many amazing questions and hopefully learned something about tolerance, respect and understanding which she can take forward in life.

A short nap at the hotel and check-out at midnight for our 3A departure home onboard KLM via Amsterdam and Newark. The last flight cancelled via AirTran and we were rebooked to depart 3 hours later. They provided two free future tickets which are step one towards the next adventure!

You can make as little or as much from any budget. Not including air, hotel and train tickets we had a budget of 700LE. We experienced all that we wished and could have hoped for, bought souvenirs for friends and family and returned home with 60LE.

My two cents:
Everything is negotiable; haggle, haggle and hold firm P.T. Barnum must have come to Egypt. The Egyptian people were spectacular. Do not indict their society on elements you may see at tourist attractions. Traffic lights are at most a suggestion so be cautious when crossing roads. Get out and experience the people of Egypt. People least likely to speak English are the tourist police