The odyssey began as United #829 lifted of from Chicago. The service on-board was nice. A standard chicken or beef post departure meal, half-time snack of Chinese soup and pre-arrival hot meal service with beef or pasta offerings. The crew was constantly present throughout the flight and the food was edible and good, which was a welcome change.
The routing was the polar route which was very interesting. Passing over the North Pole, through Eastern Siberia & Lake Baikal, Mongolia and China. Gave me some future trip ideas! Touch down a few minutes ahead of schedule after 15 hours in flight.
The Hong Kong airport is easy to get around with multi-lingual signage and very user friendly. No twisty corridors, or isolated areas for customs. Bolt for the door or hang around for a while if you wish. I hit the ground running with a tight schedule in mind. The train to the main terminal, pass through customs and out into the arrivals hall. What a pleasure it is the fly through customs so fast.
In the arrivals hall, I search for the center of the building or look for McD's and make a left for ground transportation. With cost in mind I decided to take the A11 ($40HKD) to Central Hong Kong. A 25 minute ride on the top deck to catch a nice view of the ride into town.
Once at City Hall stop it took a few moments to catch my bearings and point my way to the Peak Tram. Hong Kong Island is not entirely pedestrian friendly; but, there are signs in the central district which direct to many local tourist attractions. A few twists and turns and I was at the Peak Terminus.
The ride to Victoria Peak departs every 8 minutes or so and the cost is $30HKD return. The ride is pleasant with stops on the way (as requested). The Peak is under major construction at this time. I believe the signs show a summer completion. The main loss is the ability to use the platform to get a good view of Hong Kong. The Galleria and Museum are still operating. A few snapshots, a bit of wandering around and back down I go.
Once at the terminus I follow the Star Ferry signs and a nice 20 minute walk. I had anticipated a Harbor Tour when I arrived at a cost of $85HKD, instead I jumped on the ferry crossing to Tsim Tsa Tsui for $2.20HKD. A nice savings - I would suggest not taking the "Harbor Tour" unless you really want to hang out in the Harbor or enjoy a Dinner Cruise ($$). Save the dough, take the ferry and enjoy the Light show from the Kowloon side. It starts at 8:00pm.
I took the next hour walking through Kowloon and along Canton Street and Nathan Road. More and more high end shops are pushing the traditional out; but, it is still such a pleasant madhouse. Back to the Harbor and caught the evening light show of Hong Kong. Not quite what the brochures show; but, unique and enjoyable none the less.
Back to the Star Ferry and return to Hong Kong. A short walk to Sheung Wan for departure to Macau via the TurboJet Ferry. Again, not very pedestrian friendly, yet doable. The night crossing to Macau is $172HKD one-way. I did catch the advice from the travel forum. I visited an agency in the ticket lobby and purchased passage for $290HKD return. I could have gotten it for less I am sure. They offer a number of gaming "junkets" as well.
The ferry is about 55 minutes in duration and very comfortable. They close check-in around 45 minutes prior to sailing time; but, you can purchase a later sailing and standby for an earlier departure. You clear Hong Kong customs to exit here. Very organized with seat assignments similar to air travel in a former era with stickies placed on your ticket. Upon arrival in Macau you clear customs again as Macau is a separate "State". A quick 15 minute ride by shuttle to the Hyatt and the end of day 1.
The Hyatt Regency Macau is . . . well . . . not so nice. The lobby is decent, the restaurant offers a nice lunch buffet, the resort grounds are so so. But, the rooms are horrible. There is a Club Lounge which sits in the Hall of the Club Floor (10th) and provides a very basic offering for breakfast and evening cocktails which I missed. The Hyatt sits on a separate island and my room offered a nice view of Macau. Great potential; but, in need of a major infusion or cash and commitment.
Day 2 begins with a stretch and ALOT of fog. This is pretty much the constant theme the next day as well. It does burn off by late morning; but, still a gray haze remains. It seems that this is the time of year for this. I take the Hyatt shuttle which runs every 20-30 minutes to the Hotel Lisboa and start on my stroll of Macau.
There is a nice walking tour that sets from the Lisboa, on to St. Dominic, St. Paul ruins and Monte Fort. St. Paul is the ruins of a beautiful church where only the facade remains. Monte Forte defended Macau in days long gone. It offers a wonderful view and also hosts the Macau Museum. I deviated from here and ventured towards St. Lazarus, Guia Fort & Lighthouse, Fisherman's Wharf, Lotus Flower and through town. Basically a big circle. Along the way I found a street which was obviously a local favorite to dine and jumped right in. I have never said "what's that?", "what part of the - ?!" and "WHAT?!?!?" more in my life. Much was not my taste; but, fun and the experience could not be beat.
Macau is pretty much Asian Vegas. There is substantial construction going on which will add thousands of hotel rooms and at least a dozen casinos before the end of the decade. Take a moment to visit the Hotel Lisboa. It is a view into a former time and starkly contrasts what is being developed. The island is an interesting blend of Portuguese, Chinese and modern cultures. In one view you will find the buildings of all three seemingly co-existing. I would definitely recommend at least a day trip to Macau. Especially from Hong Kong and to enjoy the contrast and similarities of culture.
Day 3 was an early start to another crazy adventure. More fog, the Hyatt shuttle to the Pier and TurboJet Ferry return to Hong Kong Island. A short and easy walk (10 min) to the Outlying Islands Ferry to Mui Wo ($22.20HKD). The trip is via 1st Ferry Lines and takes about 35 minutes. Once you get out of the terminal at Mui Wo, take bus #2 ($16.00HKD) to Ngong Pong (Po Lin) off to your left. One of the first things you notice is thousands of bicycles. A true contrast to what you would see stateside as a form of commute.
By the way, here is another huge savings. I sat next to a few Brits on the ferry over who had purchased a tour to Po Lin. Not knocking the benefits of a tour; but, they paid $520HKD!! You could do this for under $150HKD solo (including admission). I waived as our bus cruised right past theirs on the way to Po Lin.
The ride is really nice and giving a nice experience of Lantau Island. It takes around 45 minutes and just twist and turns, up and down the hillside, along the shore and up to the Monastery. Po Lin is more of a campus than I expected and offers a nice variety of sites. From the VERY obvious giant Buddha to the Temples and architecture. The area is under construction and will soon have cable car access from Tung Chung.
This was very enjoyable and would recommend whether you venture up to Buddha ($65HKD w/vegetarian lunch included) or just take in the sights at the base which are free; but, donations are accepted and encouraged. Either on the way to or from Po Lin, take time to look into the hills and find the Buddha. It is impressive how dominant it is on the landscape.
From Po Lin I took bus #21 ($6.40HKD) to Tai O fishing village. At first I was disappointed until I wandered a bit further and found the Tai O Market. It was small and enjoyable. It wanders through the streets of town and features mostly seafood items, which would make sense. Calling it the Venice of Asia is a major stretch. Some houses do sit on stilts; but, nearly ready to fall into the water. If you have the time, I would recommend the stop in Tai O. It adds maybe an hour to your day versus just to and from Po Lin.
If you see souvenir vendors here, buy your stuff NOW. Chinese health balls, chops sticks and such. You can get each for $10HKD. You will be charged $95HKD at the airport! It also helps support the community.
From here I was in the home stretch. Bus #11 ($11.00HKD) to Tung Chung which takes about 45 minutes and #S1 ($3.50HKD) to the Airport which takes around 15 minutes. Tung Chung Town Center is a modern shopping area and also the start of the cable car to Po Lin if you desire this route as an option to or from. Last chance for food or souvenirs before paying airport prices.
I had a bit of time and almost wandered again. I smartly decided against it. Besides, I need to leave something for next time and I was at my spending goal of $500HKD ($64USD). I look forward to a visit to the New Territories and the continued contrast of what I have enjoyed in Hong Kong and Macau.
Check-in for Flt#828 starts at 3:45 and after a quick visit with customs to exit I was in the RCC. The Red Carpet Club is located near gate 60 upstairs and was enjoyable. Food offerings featured a rice dish, beef dish, baked pastries and dumpling. The usual drinks, snacks and dessert items. A nice upgrade from what is found stateside.
The door closes, pushed from the gate, brief taxi and airborne home. The food selections basically the same as the way over and crew was equally as available throughout. The route home over water, profiling the Alaskan archipelago and after 14 hours I am home again.
